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matterhorn north face routes

April 6, 2021

matterhorn north face routes

by Admin

The north face of the Matterhorn is a mixed climb on an ultra classic route that requires the highest degree of proficiency on both snow and rock. Found insideMost of the face routes are infrequently climbed, and the classic NW (Zmutt) Ridge – long considered to be one of the ... The Matterhorn's western neighbour is the Dent d'Hérens (4171m), whose ice-sheathed North Face, rising 1300m from ... Route: Matterhorn North Face - Schmid-Route (TD/+, WI4+, M5) - 1100m, V - First ascent: Franz and Toni Schmid between 31 July and 1 August 1931. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. Two weeks ago Tom and i headed up to the Grandes Jorasses for the croz spur, we had been told it was in good conditions other than the top which was dry. Planetmountain.com reported the news and said, “In 1978, this ‘west face direttissima’ was the scene of the dramatic first winter ascent at the hands of Rolando Albertini, Marco Barmasse, Innocenzo Menabreaz, Leo Pession, Augusto Tamone, Arturo Squinobal and Oreste Squinobal. 2012. We use cookies to ensure a better website performance, to analyse site traffic and to give you a more tailored experience. The two French, almost half that age, have quoted difficulties of ED2 or ED3, F5, A2 and 85° ice, all on the notoriously poor rock for which the North Face is well-known. Matterhorn (4478m) Overview: The Matterhorn is the most easily recognised peak in the world. December 2015. Use the standard approach from Matterhorn Creek ( 2, 3) to reach the basin, southeast of Wetterhorn - 4. The north face of the Grandes Jorasses, our route marked in red. Read more ». SUBSCRIBE to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com, Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse, Portfolio: Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse, Nirmal Purja and the film 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible, Jacopo Larcher adds two difficult trad climbs to Valle dell’Orco, Italy, The Ultimate Run, Markus Eder’s dream descent, Barbara Zangerl and the invisible bond of a climbing partnership, Tsoboje Northwest Face in Nepal climbed by Nejc Marčič, Luka Stražar, Mountaineering boot SCARPA Mountain Ribelle Tech 2.0 HD, Crampon compatible mountaineering boots Tengu GTX, Womens down jacket for mountaineering Hyper Jacket Lady, Men’s lightweight fleece jacket Lokka Hoodie, Light & Fast alpinism with the new products from CAMP, Petzl & Urban Wall, on 23 September a launch event of the new partnership, C.A.M.P. After Bonatti's climb, the best alpinists were still preoccupied with one last great problem: the "Zmutt Nose", an overhang lying on the right-hand side of the north face. It had been one of the dreams of the late Giancarlo Grassi, one of the most important ice climbers and alpinists not only in Italy. Thirty-one years passed before Swiss guides Paul Etter and Hilti von Allmen made the first winter ascent of the Schmid Route, over two days in February 1962. He then made the first Canadian ascent of the north face of the Eiger via the 1938 route a lost variation. Each route has its dangers. See video of Dani Arnold's record-setting climb of the peak's perilous north face. Monte Rosa 4000m peaks including Punta Giordani 4046m, Balmhorn 4167m, Pyramid Vincent 4215m, Punta Gnifetti 4554m, Zumsteinspitze 4564m, Parrotspitze 4436m and Ludwigshohe 4342m. Describes each major peak, looks at climbing routes and approaches, and discusses the history of mountaineering in the Alps Climber's guide to the Eiger North Face standard route Menu Login search . After a report of good conditions on the Schmidt route I headed over to Zermatt with Stu McAleese and Rich Cross. Matterhorn north face, Schmidt route. 2056 Finally, the Schmidt route climbs Matterhorn via its north face, which consists of a 1,200-meter wall, one of the longest in the Alps. Patagonia Expedition (winter 2015/2016): Aguja Poincenot, route Carrington-Rouse. "Fine" we said. 5 days observation with the French School of Alpinism (ENSA) on the Aspirant Guide course. Hiking or climbing on routes in alpine terrain requires good physical health, meticulous preparation and technical skills in mountain sports. All superlatives apply to the Matterhorn, it is a truly incredible mountain. SEON, Switzerland, May 4, 2015 /PRNewswire/ — To mark the start of the season on the Matterhorn, top class alpinist Dani Arnold, from Switzerland, has set a new milestone: on April 22nd the speed specialist from the Mammut Pro Team climbed the Schmid route on the Matterhorn North face in 1 hour and 46 minutes. He wanted to call the route the Voie Sébastien Gay, as a tribute to his young friend. Matterhorn North Wall - February 1965 In February 1965, Bonatti tried with two companions to climb a new, direct route on Matterhorn Nordwand (north face)[13] but the team was turned around by storm. Found inside – Page viiiyears he climbed some of the great classics and the harder new routes in the Dolomites. ... The following year he consolidated his winter climbing with a bold winter ascent up the Matterhorn North Face, and all this before the drop pick ... Her other notable climbs include the Bonatti Route on the north face of the Matterhorn and the southwest pillar of the Aiguille du Dru. The infamous "trilogy" has made, and still makes, generations of climbers dream big, their long walls ranging from 1200m to 1800m where many historic rock and ice routes run. Lindsay Griffin, Working for climbers, hill walkers & mountaineers, Posted by The three then more or less followed the Schmid until the upper face, where the threat of a storm forced a traverse left to the Hornli Ridge at the approximate level of the Shoulder. The first indicates new ground to be no more than a direct and somewhat illogical start of a few hundred metres to reach the top of the initial snowfield on the Schmid, at the point where the latter traverses right to reach the central couloir. "The Eiger or the Matterhorn, in comparison, especially if the conditions are good on the Matterhorn North Face, for example… Well, it's quite like running, or hiking, for a good climber." A critical part of the project for Arnold wasn't just to solo all six faces, but to climb them via their classic routes—even if that raised the . Found inside – Page 86There are several unaccomplished gymnast routes up the Matterhorn (straight up the north face, for instance); there remains more to be done in that neighbourhood by our excellent and muscular friends [...] We shall soon no doubt hear of ... There are currently no comments, why not add your own? The West Ridge is a popular climb with Zermatt Guides, but arguably the best routes are on the South Face. From "Tour of the World". The two concentrated their efforts on the vertical or sometimes overhanging terrain between the lower sections of the classic 1931 Schmid Route and the 1965 Bonatti Direct but were forced to retreat after one bivouac due to stonefall. Found inside – Page 28In the same year, Franz and Toni Schmid, brothers from Munich, climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn, the first of the three most famous ... The next to fall was the Croz Spur, a rock and mixed route on the Grandes Jorasses, in 1935. 2 hours with lift, 5 hours hiking. Over the past three decades, both faces were repeated scenes of massive rock falls, which changed or obliterated large parts of existing routes. As an alpinst I grew up beneath the South Face of the Matterhorn. The Peutérey Integral takes in over 4500m of technical ascent from Italian meadows to the summit of . One in particular is how its shape changes so dramatically with a relatively small change in one's position. But I didn't begin climbing immediately. In 2006 the celebrated guide from La Fouly on the Swiss side of the Mont Blanc Range attempted a line in the middle of the North Face with Sébastien Gay. News flash: Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti made a single day repeat on the north face of the Matterhorn of the Bonatti route, the legendary line . The first ascent of the Matterhorn, one of the highest summits in the Alps and Europe wasfrom Zermatt in 1865 by a party led by Edward Whymper. Have you climbed much together in the past? The route is mostly rock, starting 5 min. The Matterhorn is probably the most famous mountain in the European Alps. In Canada, he made the first ascent of the north face of South Goodsir VI 5.9 A2 and Gimme Shelter VI WI6R with Dave Cheesmond and Tim Friesen respectfully. It is a big route and it is always fun climbing as a team of 3. . A couple of days later, Jon asked us how the route was. Major climbs Archivi - Enrico Bonino. For safety reasons, it can only be climbed during fall and spring. The long family tradition continues and I'm now a fourth generation Mountain Guide. Found inside – Page 146was Divine Providence , on the east face of the Grand Pilier d'Angle on Mont Blanc , with Francois Marsigny in 1984. ... route on the Dru , the north face of the Eiger , the Walker Spur and the north face of the Matterhorn in winter . 12/08/2009, © Owen had the camera so most of the footage is of Rocio. After Bonatti's climb, the best alpinists were still preoccupied with one last great problem: the "Zmutt Nose", an overhang lying on the right-hand side of the north face. 6. Back in the valley his two friends had to leave. Climbing the Petit Dru North Face was also anything but a walk in the park. In February 2015, a dream came true for Petzl Germany's Felix Sattelberger: he and Reini Hones made a rare documented ascent of the Bonnatti route on the Matterhorn's north face. Matterhorn North Face - Schmid route. East and north face of the Matterhorn, at the light / shadow border the Hörnligrat height: 4478 m above sea level M. location Border Canton Valais ( Switzerland) / Region Aosta Valley ( Italy) Mountains: Valais Alps: Dominance: 13.7 km → Liskamm-West summit Notch height: 1031 m ↓ Col Durand Coordinates, ( CH) After this I followed in my father's footsteps and became a ski and snowboard instructor, when I was 22 I became a Mountain Guide and then Mountain Guide Instructor. announces its rebranding, adopts a new logo to light up its future, The Ferrino Women Team is warming up, as it returns to the Tor des Géants, Luka Stražar negotiating exposed terrain at the start of the second day on the NW Face of Tsoboje (Chobutse), Nepal (Nejc Marčič, Luka Stražar 28-30/10/2021). The guides in the hut were making bets on how far he’d make it before he turned around, but Doyle climbed the route in a day. He then soloed the North Face V of the Matterhorn. Unknown to most, the Romans originally named the Matterhorn, 'Mons Silvius'. The Schmid route is covered with a lot of fresh snow, so the route is more difficult than expected. February 22: In winter and alone, Walter Bonatti climbs a direct new route on the north face, the "North Face Direct". The north face, meanwhile, remained both renowned and feared. 23 min. Schmid route on the Matterhorn's north face. "The Eiger or the Matterhorn, in comparison, especially if the conditions are good on the Matterhorn North Face, for example… Well, it's quite like running, or hiking, for a good climber." A critical part of the project for Arnold wasn't just to solo all six faces, but to climb them via their classic routes—even if that raised the . All three climbers have been contacted about the exact location of their route, and Drlik has been asked to confirm the published version of the '72 line. First climbed by a seven man team in July 1865, some of whom met with tragedy on the descent. Mikko is still psyched and we headed in to ski the Matterhorn the hard way. 2007 - Swiss Route - Les Courtes North Face 2007 - Ortler North Face; 2007 - Salbit West Ridge; 2008 - Ginat - Droites North Face 2010 - Vivagel - Aig.Verte North Face; 2011 - Carrington Rousse - Aig. Mountains - this very project even - seem to be in his DNA... Tom talks dealing with doubts, death, his famous mother, the selfishness of soloing, and why the mainstream media doesn't understand climbing. THE MATTERHORN EAST FACE (OSTWAND) By early June, most of the skiers have swapped to mountain biking or climbing. Matterhorn North Face - Schmid route. The Eiger North Face needs a lot of snow that has had time and enough warm/cold cycles to turn that snow into a lot of ice. The normal approach to Arbenbiwak, through beautiful landscape beneath the magnificent Matterhorn North Face. It was he who helped me understand that without an intense love for the mountains it's not worth becoming a mountain guide or alpinist. Grande Jorasses North Face, Chamonix. Photo: Simon Gietl Matterhorn North Face ~ Monday 20th October 2008. He then travelled to Europe where he climbed Central Pillar of Freney VI and the Peuterey Ridge IV on Mont Blanc and the Croz Spur VI on Grandes Jorasses. Alternatively you can hike from Zermatt sans lift, adding another three hours and 950 . Ueli Steck set the record time in climbing the north face (Schmid route) of Matterhorn in 2009 with a time of 1 hour 56 minutes. Found inside – Page 65It is a symmetrical four-sided pyramid whose South Face is sunny and whose North Face is appropriately icy and foreboding. Again a summit with no easy route – the Normal Route by the northeast ridge is steep, although fixed ropes on the ... He then made the first Canadian ascent of the north face of the Eiger via the 1938 route a lost variation. And even though it's a couloir, we hardly came across any ice. Read more », Heading to the Alps this summer? Found inside – Page 243You make a face as if you'd known all along , and it only came out now . When I was in the middle of it ... three north - face routes , already in the eighties . The Matterhorn , Eiger , Grand Jorasses . A helicopter bounced him around ... Managing to climb just one of these would mean bringing something new and concrete to modern alpinism. On 23 October, German mountain guide Sebastian Brutscher climbed the Matterhorn's north face via the Schimd Route and flew from the 4,478m summit. Pick your line and continue north/northwest ( 5) to reach 12,900', near the base of the east face - 6. The Swiss-French line appears to follow the same line through the quasi-overhanging lower wall, then heads straight up to the Schmid, reaching it at around half-height on this 1,000m face. The first edition narrating the ascent of the Matterhorn, with numerous illustrations: maps, views, equipment Time was a bit tight - Stu and Rich had flights to catch.The next morning with perfect weather and good nevé we made fast progress to the end of the ramp - then found several . In addition to joining up with Hans Kammerlander for the first climb of the direct north pillar of the Shivling (VII, WI 4) in India, Hainz also scored solo successes. Despite the adverse conditions, the two friends reach the summit of the Matterhorn in the early evening at 6 pm. In the spring of 2018, the face was dry and icy; the previous winter's prodigious snowfall was too cold. The next day, they climbed overhanging rock through the yellow band where they had to resort to the only aid climbing of the route. mountaineers, including ski-mountaineers. Would you like to login to post your comment? A father and son who share the same love for alpinism and the mountains... What has this meant to you, how has this influenced your choices in life?I remember that as a young lad I listened curiously to my father talk about his adventures in the mountains and for me his slides were better than any film on TV. Egg is a 6 pitch route that can be climbed in big boots at grade AD - (UK equivalent to VS). thrillseekerz 02 Nov 2014. I skied and competed until I was 18 but was forced to abandon this after injuring both knees badly. It's a very dangerous route when the face is dry, as dry equals rockfall. Zermatt mountain guide Richard Andenmatten has climbed the Matterhorn more than 850 times. New Topic Reply to Topic This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings. Early morning start at around 6 a.m.: Roger Schäli climbs the Schmid Route of the Matterhorn North Face. Past, present and future... What unites alpinists and what do you hope for the future of alpinism? Jones is best known for the first British solo ascent of the north face of the Eiger in 1981, and for his climbs on the Matterhorn and South Col on Mount Everest. In the autumn of 2008 Dumas and Fredricksen joined Troillet for an (unsuccessful) attempt on the South Face of Annapurna and it was there that he suggested to the two French alpinists that they join forces for another try at the Matterhorn. In 1965 Yvette Vaucher joined a list of elite climbers as she successfully navigated the face to become the first female to reach the top via this route. Get the digital edition of Gripped for your chosen platform: This field is for validation purposes and should be left unchanged. The two Mountain Guides and ski instructors who tied in to the same ropes to succeed on a difficult, uncertain and also dangerous goal. Readers will delight in both the stories of many of the famous explorations and the more current journeys. Found insideBe sure to take in the outrageous views of the Matterhorn (Route 44), Sawtooth Ridge, Twin Peaks, and the Robinson Creek drainage. Any of the main gullies down the north face offer equally good skiing—in fact, the entire face is good ... The routes presented here are undertaken at one's own risk. Compared to . The Matterhorn, with North Face on right. However, although it provided hard technical climbing, it seems questionable whether their line breaks any new ground. Below is Felix's trip report of the arduous two-day and two-night ascent of the mountain of all mountains. Found inside – Page 329Lauchlan said of the Jackson / Shea route , “ Listen , it's perfect for you . It's like three pieces of Canada . You do the north face of Athabasca — you've done that ; you do Cascade Waterfall — you've done that ; then you do Takakkaw ... Baggy Richards and Steve Long are here to help you save some weight and time. It may give you ideas for future trips! It was something unique, exciting and difficult due to both the technical difficulties and the conditions of the route: plenty of powder snow and extremely cold. How did it go? The 1,000-meter Schmid Route on the north face of the Matterhorn.Ueli Steck climbed it in 1 hour 56 minutes. 2021 Tags: Articles / Words, matterhorn, matterhorn north face. The noted French climbing guide and first man to climb all six of the great north faces of the Alps offers a personal account of his climbing adventures, recounting the dangers, triumphs, and joy found in the sport. Climbing and skiing above Zermatt is inconvenient and expensive, as you have to park . West Face of Famous Matterhorn Climbed in Winter. After Bonatti's climb, the best alpinists were still preoccupied with one last great problem: the "Zmutt Nose", an overhang lying on the right-hand side of the north face. Climbing in his DNA: Tom Ballard ticks project Starlight and Storm, Spanish secrets: top 5 best mid-grade sport climbing destinations, Get alpine hut discounts with a Reciprocal Rights Card, Don't miss: 6 classic beginner alpine routes, How to deal with cancelled and delayed flights, More success for BMC supported teams in Alaska, Sustainable Adventure in a Warming World: join the webinar, Club support: webinar programme for officers, leaders and volunteers, GB National Development Squad 2022 - Selection Policy, Call to check avalanche transceivers - updated advice, Wild Horizons Podcast: Kirsty Pallas on Glen Coe, Eastoterica: the East London climbing & sculpture guide, Autumn rocks: we've got you covered for Covid-19. Farina and Mojori were hoping to climb the north face, but they deemed it too dry and moved to the west face. But what is really important for me, that which rendered the ascent unique and unforgettable, is having shared this adventure with my father. However the North Face was a different challenge and involved mainly snow/ice and mixed climbing throughout, and at altitude. Nothing specific, but our hearts were in the right place and everything turned out for the best. This program of 'Time of your Life' profiles veteran mountaineer and adventurer Eric Jones from Tremadog (North Wales). The ascent comes less than three weeks after Steck soloed the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours 21 minutes, via the Colton-MacIntyre . Matterhorn, North Face via Schmid (1100m, TD, V, P3, WI 4+, M5) APPROACH. The second, and more believable, starts further right and joins the Schmid after c500m. Found inside – Page 179On the first day of the climb proper Habeler and Messner carried rucsacs weighing 13kgs . On the second ( summit ) day ... On 9 August they climbed the face , comparing it , in steepness and difficulty to the Matterhorn's north face . Tre Cime North Face, Italian Dolomites. Route. Found inside – Page 151They ascended the middle of the face toward right - facing layback cracks to the north face and class - 3 scrambling . Matterhorn Peak , The “ Maze : ” first ascent by Roitman and Aragon in 1994. The route ( II , 5.6 ) ascends the face ... A leader? The best route overall. cookie policy. Adding too many columns to a small device may require horizontal scrolling Found insideAfter the war, new and more difficult lines were stitched in between existing routes on every big face. Walter Bonatti established one of the hardest mixed routes in the Alps on the north face of the Grand Pilier d'Angle on Mont ... Written by tomgrant1985. Posted on Wed, 24 August, 2016 by LensScaper. It was peaceful and even if we didn't say anything special we were aware of the fact that this was and is the most beautiful climb we've ever done: the climb by a father and a son. Found inside – Page 327To Murray Jones and I the six classic north face routes seemed the obvious choice for a season - long expedition ... From our hayrick beyond Zermatt we caught intimidating glimpses of the Matterhorn north face plastered with new snow . Troillet took with him a small wooden box with the ashes of Gay, given to him by Gay's wife. By continuing to use the website, you consent to our How did you tackle this grand course?The mindset was the same as ever. Found inside – Page 48She led the first all women's team to climb Matterhorn north face in winter ( 1978 ) . Her first high altitude experiences were in the Pamirs ( Pik Lenina , 7134 min 1970 ) and the Afghan Hindu Kush ( Noshaq , 7492 m in 1972 ) . Two pictures, showing the line of this route, have been published. The accident happened around noon. "What transformed pure physical delight into something deeper was the fact that no-one had been here before..." Discover the fascinating stories of the men and women who have scaled the world's highest peaks. Riffelhorn - Rock Climbing on the South Face The Riffelhorn has traditionally been a training peak for the Matterhorn. It was he who taught me that in the mountains, in addition to being prepared technically, you always need to use you brain, prudence and safety. What are the Jonathan Conville skills courses? It is a very technical ascent, first attained in 1931. Jack Geldard on the lower half of the Matterhorn North Face - Photo by Rob Greenwood . The formidable North Face of the Matterhorn is a legend among climbers. Since the birth of mountaineering, these three peaks have fascinated the climbing public like no others: Mont Blanc because its ascent heralded the dawn of alpine climbing, and because its 15,771-foot summit is the highest point in Western Europe; the Matterhorn because of its appearance as an unclimbable rock tower; and the Eiger, with its dark, brooding North Face, the last of the "Three . This route follows a natural line, a deep gully which splits the South Face in two and which finishes 200m beneath the summit. However, at least two noted Italian alpinists and historians think it most likely that the Swiss-French team was simply unaware of the Czech ascent. Related Articles. August 13: First complete ascent of the west face by Renato Daguin and Giovanni Ottin. Found inside – Page 173He sol o-climbed many difficult lines, including the first winter ascent of the North Face of the Matterhorn 100 years after the first ascent. Many of his famous routes on the Grandes Jorasses are visible from the refuge. So on a coolish day at the end of July we climbed to route in . INSURANCE. 1220m in a single day, up a perfect line, via that gully which splits the immense South Face of the Matterhorn in half and which exits 200m beneath the summit. The British Mountaineering Council (BMC) is the representative body that exists Found insideThe pair planned to make a low-budget film about climbing the Matterhorn's North Face; they hoped to sell the film to television. The weather didn't cooperate. They managed to climb the normal route on the peak, but the film came to ... One of the 6 classic North faces of the Alps which, I have been really keen to climb for a long time and I have been waiting for the right partner, weather, conditions, time off etc to come together. To conquer one of the worlds most famous and notorious mountains and to stare down the vastness of the Eiger North Face. The Matterhorn: is 4,478 metres (14,692 ft) high, lying on the border between Switzerland and Italy, it is one of the highest peaks in the Alps and its 1,200 metres (3,937 ft) north face is one of the greatest challenges in the Alps. Dumas and Fredricksen are no strangers to hard big walling, having climbed a new route on the Dru roughly based on the line of the destroyed Bonatti Pillar, a new route on Trango Pulpit, and made the third ascent of Riders on the Storm, East Face of the Central Tower of Paine. Perhaps it was destiny therefore that the route should come a full circle with a special partnership: that of the father-and-son team comprised of Marco and Hervé Barmasse. The Swiss climber Ueli Steck has climbed the north face of the Matterhorn by the Schmid Route in 1 hour 56 minutes. Ueli Steck set the record time in climbing the north face (Schmid route) of Matterhorn in 2009 with a time of 1 hour 56 minutes. Many had attempted this in the past, Marco Barmasse had dreamt of the line for decades and he'd even attempted it 24 years back. How dangerous is climbing the Matterhorn? Found inside – Page 123... Lorenz Cima della Busazza West Face Torre Venezia South Face ( Tissi and Andrich Routes ) Cima Piccolissima Cassin Route Grand Capucin East Face Aig . du Midi Frendo Spur Dent du Requin North Face Matterhorn North Face Totenkirchl ... Straddling the border between . Good effort to Calum and John who climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn today in pretty demanding snowy conditions. The north face was not climbed until 1931. You climbed the wall on the route of the first ascent by Franz and Toni Schmid (1931) in a time of one hour and 46 minutes, thus being ten minutes faster than Ueli Steck. Once onto the less steep face, they continued up a series of runnels to join the Schmid Route. walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death.

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